This technique of colorizing resin and using Open Frame Hoops is probably one of our most popular tutorials. The look of the finished jewelry can vary based on the frames and resin color thus allowing for a diverse look and feel. Check out the tutorial on this technique or watch the video at the end of the post.
- Open Frame Hoops
- Castin’ Crafts Opaque Pigments
- Nunn Design 2-Part Resin Kit
- Packing Tape
- Toothpick or headpin
Cut a piece of packing tape and place it on your work surface. Place an Open Frame Hoop onto the tape. To create a hole in the center of the Open Frame Hoop to pass a chain through, place a smaller Open Frame Hoop inside the edge of the large Open Frame Hoop. Using your fingertips, press the hoops down onto the packing tape and rub back and forth on your work surface to make sure it is burnished down.
Tip: Check to see that your packing tape is clear and there is no residue or mottling in the adhesive. If there is, it will show up in your finished resin piece when you remove the tape once the resin is cured. Try to use an area of the tape that does not have blotches or marks.
If you have an Open Frame Bezel that has a loop, use a pair of Flush Cutter to cut off the jumpring. Don’t worry if there are solder marks showing on the bezel after cutting off the loop. The colorized resin will hide this.
Trim away any excess packing tape from around your Open Frame Hoop to avoid the curing resin piece from being potentially disturbed.
Tip: I like to place each bezel on its own individual piece of packing tape. It makes the pouring easier to manage and eliminates the chance of disturbing the bezel next to it.
Read the resin instructions for safety concerns regarding the Nunn Design Resin. When I work with resin, I always:
- Place a large plastic bag over my work surface and tape it down.
- I make sure I have ventilation in my workroom.
- I wear gloves.
- I wear glasses (readers because I can’t see anymore. Plus it protects my eyes!).
- I have a pile of wet wipes handy.
Place one cup (included in the Nunn Design Resin Kit) onto your table. For curing purposes, it is very important that the resin be an exact 1 to 1 ratio of Part A and Part B. I suggest getting your eyes level with the resin so you can see the lines on the measuring cup. Pour Part A of your resin kit up to the ½ fluid ounce mark on your measuring cup. Pour Part B of your resin kit into the same cup until it is filled to the 1 fluid ounce mark. It is important to pour Part A first and then Part B. It is some chemical thing about the part B being heavier or something.
Set your timer for 2 minutes. Using the stir stick from your kit (a popsicle stick or coffee stir stick will work great too), slowly and carefully stir your resin scraping the sides as you stir. Stir for a minimum of 2 minutes. If your resin is still cloudy continue to mix until clear. After mixing is complete and your resin is clear, scrape both sides of your stir stick on the edge of your resin filled cup.
Pour a small amount of the mixed clear resin into another of the measuring cups. You can mix the full 1 fluid ounce of resin if you want, but I transfer the resin into smaller cups because it is easier to stir and less messy to move around when less full. To create the light green color, I first added Castin’ Craft Opaque Pigment White to create an opaque color. Then I added a tiny toothpick tip of Craftin’ Craft Opaque Pigment Yellow and Blue. Continue mixing the resin until you have the desired color.
Tip: Be sure that the colorant does not equal more than 10% of your resin as having more than 10% could cause issues with curing!
I tend to work in a small area (typically my kitchen table), so I like to work on a surface that projects can be easily moved around and not disturbed. Place some business cards or some heavy card stock onto your work surface, making it easy to move the hoops without getting any resin on your fingers.
Slowly drizzle your mixed colorized resin into the Open Frame Hoops until partially full, but not domed. Use a toothpick to agitate the resin and make sure there aren’t any air bubbles lurking below the surface. Once you are confident about the air bubbles, continue to pour your resin until the bezel is filled. If you want a flat resin surface, fill the resin just to the edge of the bezel. If you would like a high dome, continue to drizzle resin until you have your desired height.
If you have any resin where you don’t want it, use a wet-wipe to clean up the surface. Set aside to cure (up to 72 hours).
If you are exploring other items to place in the inside of the Open Frame Hoop, make sure that the bezel or jump rings are equal in height to the outside Open Frame Hoop. If they are not, it will be easy to over pour and have the resin fill into the centers of the bezel or jump ring. If you use jump rings, make sure that they have a soldered seam, otherwise resin will fill into the center of them as well. See these pieces where the resin seeped through the seam?
To finish your open bezel or frame, remove the packing tape from the backside once fully cured. If you have any excess residue from the packing tape on the backside, use the tape to remove it like you would when you are removing lint or animal fur from your clothes. Keep touching the packing tape onto the sticky surface until it is no longer sticky.
Still sticky, try Goo Be Gone! Follow the manufactures instructions for best results. I applied a couple drops on the backside and let it sit for over a minute. I then used a stir stick to scrape the tapes residue. It was fast and easy. Once clean, just use soap and water to clean the resin pendant.
If you have excess colorized resin from this project, don’t let it go to waste. Pour the resin onto a plastic bag and let it cure. Once the resin is cured for 12 hours, you can cut the resin with scissors and create interesting patterns. A tutorial showing how to do this technique will be coming soon!
Use needle nose pliers to add jumprings and chain to your resin pendants. Don’t they look awesome!
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