Colorized Resin in Open Hoops with Mica Powders and Flakes
Creating pendants with colorized Nunn Design Resin and Open Hoops is a fairly easy and inexpensive way to make some statement jewelry pieces. Adding a splash of additional color with mica powders and flakes will create a one of a kind pendant.
Another blog post that you might be interested in is; How to Make 2017 Summer Pantone Colors with Colorized Resin. In the blog post we list formulas for mixing Nunn Design Resin with Castin’ Crafts Opaque Pigments to create colors from the 2017 Summer Pantone selection.
For this tutorial, I colorized the Nunn Design Resin with Castin’ Crafts Opaque Pigments in Blue, Yellow and White to create Island Paradise (Pantone 14-4620 TPG).
Open Frame Hoops
Castin’ Crafts Opaque Pigments; Blue, Yellow and White
Nunn Design 2-Part Resin Kit
Toothpick or headpin
Business Cards or glossy card stock
Decide on which Open Frame Hoop combinations that you want to create with. It is fun to mix and match colors and do a variety of sizes.
Use a wet-wipe to clean the surface of the Open Frame Hoops. This will prevent and oils and dirt getting into the resin.
Cut a piece of packing tape and place it on your work surface. Place an Open Frame Hoop onto the tape. To create a hole in the center of the Open Frame Hoop to pass a chain through, place a smaller Open Frame Hoop inside the edge of the large Open Frame Hoop. Using your fingertips, press the hoops down onto the packing tape and rub back and forth on your work surface to make sure it is burnished down.
Tip: Check to see that your packing tape is clear and there is no residue or mottling in the adhesive. If there is, it will show up in your finished resin piece when you remove the tape once the resin is cured. Try to use an area of the tape that does not have blotches or marks.
Trim away any excess packing tape from around your Open Frame Hoop to avoid the curing resin piece from being potentially disturbed.
I like to place each bezel on its own individual piece of packing tape. It makes the pouring easier to manage and eliminates the chance of disturbing the bezel next to it.
I tend to work in a small area (typically my kitchen table), so I like to work on a surface that projects can be easily moved around and not disturbed. Place some business cards or some heavy card stock onto your work surface, making it easy to move the pendants without getting any resin on your fingers.
Read the resin instructions for safety concerns regarding the Nunn Design Resin. When I work with resin, I always:
- Place a large plastic bag over my work surface and tape it down.
- I make sure I have ventilation in my workroom.
- I wear gloves.
- I wear glasses (readers because I can’t see anymore. Plus it protects my eyes!).
- I have a pile of wet wipes handy.
Place one cup (included in the Nunn Design Resin Kit) onto your table. For curing purposes, it is very important that the resin be an exact 1 to 1 ratio of Part A and Part B. I suggest getting your eyes level with the resin so you can see the lines on the measuring cup. Pour Part A of your resin kit up to the ½ fluid ounce mark on your measuring cup. Pour Part B of your resin kit into the same cup until it is filled to the 1 fluid ounce mark. It is important to pour Part A first and then Part B. It is some chemical thing about the part B being heavier or something.
Set your timer for 2 minutes. Using the stir stick from your kit (a popsicle stick or coffee stir stick will work great too), slowly and carefully stir your resin scraping the sides as you stir. Stir for the full 2 minutes. After 2 minutes, scrape both sides of your stir stick on the edge of your resin filled cup.
For this tutorial, I colorized my resin with Castin’ Crafts Opaque Pigments; blue, yellow and white to create an Island Paradise.
The formula for Island Paradise, Pantone 14-4620 TCX is:
- 1 tsp Nunn Design Resin
- 1 tiny toothpick tip Blue
- 1 tiny toothpick tip Yellow
- 4 toothpicks tips White
Here is a visual of what a “tiny toothpick tip” and a “toothpick tip” look like.
On a piece of plastic, such as a Ziplock bag, squeeze a little of the Castin’ Crafts Opaque Pigments. This will prevent you from contaminating your colorants with mixed Nunn Design Resin as you add the toothpicks of color to the resin.
Place another empty resin mixing cup onto your work area. Pour the clear resin from Step 6 into the cup, filling it to the 1 tsp mark. Add in the colorants from the formula in Step 9 to create the Island Paradise Pantone Color. Stir gently until the colorant is fully mixed together. Let resin sit for 5 minutes to let the bubbles rise to the surface and pop.
Be sure that the colorant does not equal more than 10% of your resin as having more than 10% could cause issues with curing.
Slowly drizzle your mixed colorized resin into the Open Frame Hoops until the base of the bezel is filled. Use a toothpick to agitate the resin and make sure there aren’t any air bubbles lurking below the surface. If you have any resin where you don’t want it, use a wet-wipe to clean up the surface. Set aside the bezel for about 12 hours until the resin is slightly tacky.
If you are exploring other items to place in the inside of the Open Frame Hoop, make sure that the bezel or jump rings are equal in height to the outside Open Frame Hoop. If they are not, it will be easy to over pour and have the resin fill into the centers of the bezel or jump ring. If you use jump rings, make sure that they have a soldered seam; otherwise resin will fill into the center as well. See these pieces where the resin seeped through the seam?
Oh dang, I made a mess. My option at this point is to pull up my Open Hoops and clean them and start over, or to fill the Open Hoops in all the way with resin. I’m going to fill it in all of the way with resin and then show you how you can drill it to create a hole. I’ll get back to this toward the end of the tutorial.
Where there is a tight channel, use a toothpick to pull the resin up into this area.
Use a toothpick to agitate the resin and make sure there aren’t any air bubbles lurking below the surface. It is common to have air bubbles trapped along the hoop edges.
If you have any resin where you don’t want it, use a Q-Tip to clean up the surface if any of the resin spills over the sides.
To create the splash of color, scoop up a wee bit of PearlEx Powders onto a toothpick. Place the toothpick over the wet, colorized resin, and gently tap the top of the toothpick. Drops of mica powder will land into the resin. Keep tapping until you have a desired look and effect.
Set the bezel aside for 12 hours until the resin is slightly cured.
If you see bubbles rising to the surface, using your hot breath, breathe on them. It isn’t a “blow” sort of breath – more of a “huff” sort of a breath. The hot air will make the bubbles expand, rise to the surface and pop. As the resin starts to set-up and become thicker, it will be more difficult for the air to rise to the surface. Make sure to check in on the curing resin and double check for air bubbles. If you do have some bubbles, use a toothpick to gentle drag them over to the sides. This agitation process will help them to pop. When the resin is thick and taffy like in texture it is time to let it be. If you attempt to pop bubbles at this time, you may end up with a gooey mess.
To finish your Open Hoop, remove the packing tape from the backside once fully cured. If you have any excess residue from the packing tape on the backside of the resin, use the tape to remove it like you would when you are removing lint or animal fur from your clothes. Keep touching the packing tape onto the sticky surface until it is no longer sticky. If the residue isn’t coming up, try Goo Be Gone! Follow the manufacture’s instructions for best results. I applied a couple drops on the backside and let it sit for over a minute. I then used a stir stick to scrape the tapes residue. To remove all that sticky mess, pour some rubbing alcohol onto a wet-wipe and wipe it away.
Dang, a little bubble. This is a trend guys. Anyone have any ideas how to not get these little guys on the backside of the resin pieces? Always seems to happen about 1/8” away from the bezel or hoop edge.
If you have a little resin that has spilled over, use a pair of needle nose pliers to gently pry it off. When the resin is only cured for 12 hours or so, it is still very flexible and will easily peel off the Open Hoop.
Let’s go back to the pendant that I spilled the resin into the center hoop. Here is how I fixed it. I filled the bezel completely with the colorized resin.
An hour after the resin had been poured into the hoop; I used a pair of tweezers to pick-up and lay a couple of gold leaf flakes onto the resin.
Once the resin is cured, remove the tape and clean the backside, like in step 16.
For the pieces that don’t have an open space to put chain or jumprings through, I created holes. First, I used a 1.8mm hole punch to create a slight mark in the cured resin. This will give the drill a starting point.
Lay the Open Hoop Pendant down onto a piece of wood or a surface that you can drill into. Drill a hole all the way through the resin. I also used a pair of round needle nose pliers to make sure my hole was nice and smooth.
If you have excess colorized resin from this project, don’t let it go to waste. Pour the resin onto a plastic bag and let it cure. Once the resin is cured for 12 hours, you can cut the resin with scissors and create interesting patterns. See our tutorial on our blog to learn more: Create Colorized Resin Mosaics with Excess Resin Tutorials.
Over the next couple weeks we will be providing a series of tutorials on how to use colorized resin within open back bezels. All of this is in preparation for our upcoming Buy & Try on Colorized Resin within Open Frames that will start off May 18th.
Shop the Buy & Try Colorized Resin Here!
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