Textured Resin Tutorial: Part 1
It was a cold and wet spring day when I first explored this technique of texturizing resin. The end result from my initial play was extremely exciting and I fell in love with the look of the finished pendants I created.
When I had time to create the tutorial, a month had passed and the hot summer days had begun. I had a different experience with this technique the second time. Some black residue stuck to the resin making it slightly discolored.
Even though the results weren’t ideal, I wanted to write this tutorial anyway. I titled it Part 1 because it is still a work in progress. I think I know why it didn’t work for me as well the second time, but let’s see if we can solve it together.
Nunn Design Resin Kit
Contemporary Jewelry Findings
22 Gauge Wire
1.8mm Hole Punch
Needle Nose Pliers
Select a Clay Squisher that you would like to work with.
Pour some baby powder onto a ziplock bag. Place your fingers into the baby powder and smear it thoroughly onto the surface of the Clay Squisher.
Place the Clay Squisher pad on its side and tap it lightly onto the table. The excess baby powder will fall onto the table. Wipe down your work surface, removing any excess baby powder.
Read the resin instructions for safety concerns regarding the Nunn Design Resin. When I work with resin, I always:
- Place a large plastic bag over my work surface and tape it down.
- I make sure I have ventilation in my workroom.
- I wear gloves.
- I wear glasses (readers because I can’t see anymore. Plus it protects my eyes!).
- I have a pile of wet wipes handy.
Place one cup (included in the Nunn Design Resin Kit) onto your table. For curing purposes, it is very important that the resin be an exact 1 to 1 ratio of Part A and Part B. I suggest getting your eyes level with the resin so you can see the lines on the measuring cup. Pour Part A of your resin kit up to the ½ fluid ounce mark on your measuring cup.
Pour Part B of your resin kit into the same cup until it is filled to the 1 fluid ounce mark. It is important to pour Part A first and then Part B. It is some chemical thing about the part B being heavier or something.
Set your timer for 2 minutes. Using the stir stick from your kit (a popsicle stick or coffee stir stick will work great too), slowly and carefully stir your resin scraping the sides as you stir. Stir for the full 2 minutes. After 2 minutes, scrape both sides of your stir stick on the edge of your resin filled cup.
Pour the mixed resin onto the Clay Squisher
Use the resin stir stick to create a nice even surface of resin over the Clay Squisher.
Let resin cure for 6 hours or until the resin is hard to the touch and not sticky. This stage of the curing resin is referred to as the “soft cure” stage.
Bend one of the edges of the Clay Squisher and start to pick at the edge of the resin. It might be hard to get it started, but once you do, it will be fairly easy to pull back the soft cured resin.
It was at this stage that things were different for me from spring to summer. The resin was picking-up some black. Here is where my problem solving testing still has to be played with.
Here are my theories on why this could have happened:
- Was the black some ink that I had used prior on the Clay Squisher?
- Was it some residue of black Crystal Clay from a previous project?
- Or maybe it was the heat that was causing the rubber from the Clay Squisher to stick to the curing resin.
Weird huh? What was confusing is that I had really scrubbed down the pad prior to using it. Maybe I scrubbed off some of the rubber shiny protective surface? And that shiny surface is what prevented it from sticking to the resin? I’m not even sure if there is a shiny protective surface.
Although I finished taking step-out photos at this point, let me walk you through the final steps.
The soft cured resin will be really easy to cut with a pair of scissors. Lay a Contemporary Jewelry Finding onto the surface of the soft cured resin. Hold the Contemporary Findings and the resin in place with one hand while you cut the resin with your other.
Next, use a 1.8mm Hole Punch to create some holes in the resin. You will want to punch the holes far enough in from the edge as not to easily tear the resin when you are stitching on the 22-gauge wire.
Using a pair of flush cutters, cut 1’ of 22-gauge wire. Thread the wire through the punched hole in the resin and wrap it around the Contemporary Frame several times.
Use your flush cutters again to cut away the extra wire. I cut the wire consistently where it was coming up through the resin hole. Continue until all of the Contemporary Frame is secured to the texturized resin.
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Do you have any ideas on why I had different results? Please comment below.
Stay tuned for Part 2.
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