Texturized Resin Tutorial: Part 2

This summer I wrote Part 1 of this tutorial about Texturizing Resin. I originally stumbled across this technique while messing about last spring, but when I actually scheduled the step-out photos it was mid-summer. The results didn’t come out consistent with the results I had in the spring.  To see that original post, visit our blog: Textured Resin Tutorial: Part 1.

In Part 2 of the Texturizing Resin Tutorial, I am fairly confident I know why I had the results I did. I’d much rather that I find these inconsistencies than you guys! Thanks for following along on my creative journey.

Part 2 is just like Part 1 until you get to Step 7. I added some Castin’ Crafts Opaque Pigment-Blue to mix it up a bit AND in Step 8 I identify where I went wrong in Part 1.  Read on…

Learn How!

Supplies Needed:

Nunn Design Resin Kit
  • Clay Squisher
  • Contemporary Jewelry Findings
  • 22 Gauge Wire


  • Baby Powder
  • Ziplock Bag


  • Scissors
  • 1.8mm Hole Punch
Flush Cutters
  • Needle Nose Pliers

Step 1:

Select a Clay Squisher that you would like to work with.

Clay Squisher Floral Clay Squisher Japanese Clay Squisher Retro

Step 2: 
Pour some baby powder onto a ziplock bag. Place your fingers into the baby powder and smear it thoroughly onto the surface of the Clay Squisher.

Put Baby Powder on Clay Squisher

Step 3:
Place the Clay Squisher pad on its side and tap it lightly onto the table. The excess baby powder will fall onto the table. Wipe down your work surface, removing any excess baby powder.

Step 4:
Read the resin instructions for safety concerns regarding the Nunn Design Resin.
When I work with resin, I always:

  • Place a large plastic bag over my work surface and tape it down.
  • I make sure I have ventilation in my workroom.
  • I wear gloves.
  • I wear glasses (readers because I can’t see anymore. Plus it protects my eyes!).
  • I have a pile of wet wipes handy.
  • This is a great blog post that covers 20 Habits for Successfully Using Nunn Design 2-Part Epoxy Resin. Even if you are a seasoned resin mixer, this might be worth a read.
  • You can also watch this great video on How to Mix Nunn Design Resin

Step 5:

Place one cup (included in the Nunn Design Resin Kit) onto your table. For curing purposes, it is very important that the resin be an exact 1 to 1 ratio of Part A and Part B. I suggest getting your eyes level with the resin so you can see the lines on the measuring cup. Pour Part A of your resin kit up to the ½ fluid ounce mark on your measuring cup. Pour Part B of your resin kit into the same cup until it is filled to the 1 fluid ounce mark. It is important to pour Part A first and then Part B. It is some chemical thing about the part A being heavier or something.

Mixing Nunn Design Resin

Step 6:

Set your timer for 2 minutes. Using the stir stick from your kit (a popsicle stick or coffee stir stick will work great too), slowly and carefully stir your resin scraping the sides as you stir. Stir for a minimum of 2 minutes. If your resin is still cloudy continue to mix until clear. After mixing is complete and your resin is clear, scrape both sides of your stir stick on the edge of your resin filled cup.

Stirring mixed 2-part resin

Step 7:
To add a tint of blue to the resin, add a tiny toothpick of the Castin’ Craft Opaque Pigment Blue to the mixed resin. The opaque blue pigment is very potent, so you will only need a tiny bit to colorize the fully mixed batch of resin. It is always best to add too little pigment and to add more if needed.

Adding Colorant to Nunn Design Resin

Step 8:
Alright, if you read our Texturized Resin Part 1 blog post tutorial, this is where I think I messed up. I didn’t let the resin set until it was super thick before I poured it onto the Clay Squisher. With Part 1, I poured freshly mixed resin onto the Clay Squisher and I think it chemically absorbed into the rubber.

This is what it looked like when I went to peel it up! Yuck-o!

Step 9:
In order for the resin to peel away easily once it is in the soft cured state, the resin needs to be getting good and thick before pouring it onto the Clay Squisher Texturizing Pad. Scrape out all of your remaining, thick, colorized resin onto the powder-covered Clay Squisher. Spread the resin around with a stir-stick until the resin is even in height. I had some clear resin left over from another project, so I added that to another pattern on the Clay Squisher.

Pour colorized Nunn Design resin on textured pad

TIP:  Resin must be thick prior to pouring or it will stick to the Clay Squisher.

Step 10:

Let resin cure for 6 hours or until the resin is hard to the touch and not sticky. This stage of the curing resin is referred to as the “soft cure” stage.

Step 11:
Let the resin cure for about 6 hours. It will be fairly firm and not tacky to the touch. Bend one of the edges of the Clay Squisher and start to pick at the edge of the resin. It might be hard to get it started, but once you do, it will be fairly easy to pull back the soft cured resin.

TIP:  Resin must be cut and punched during the soft cure phase.  It will continue to cure and hardened over the next 48 hours.

Step 12:
The soft cured resin will be really easy to cut with a pair of scissors. Lay a Contemporary Jewelry Finding onto the surface of the soft cured resin. Hold the Contemporary Findings and the resin in place with one hand while you cut the resin with your other.

Step 13:
Next, use a 1.8mm Hole Punch to create some holes in the resin. You will want to punch the holes far enough in from the edge as not to easily tear the resin when you are stitching on the 22-gauge wire.

Step 14:

Using a pair of flush cutters, cut 1’ of 22-gauge wire. Thread the wire through the punched hole in the resin and wrap it around the Contemporary Frame several times.

Step 15:

Use your flush cutters again to cut away the extra wire. I cut the wire consistently where it was coming up through the resin hole. Continue until all of the Contemporary Frame is secured to the texturized resin.

Download PDF Tutorial: How To Texturize Resin

Shop Supplies!

We feature this technique, but in open hoops, in one of our 6 Nunn Design Summer School Tutorials, Class 3! Texturized Resin in Open Frame Hoops. With each of our Nunn Design Summer School Tutorials, all of the supplies you will need are available for purchase. Make sure you are signed-up for summer school so that you can receive the coupon code* good for the “free goodies.”

shop Buy & Try Texturized resin in open frame hoops

Shop Wholesale:

For Wholesalers:

For our registered wholesale customers, there are a couple more things to consider when purchasing Buy & Try’s. The Nunn Design Summer School Buy & Try is good through the month of July 2018 only. After July, the Buy & Try items will still be available, but the minimum will not be waived and the mixed findings packs will not be available.

  • Minimum wholesale quantities for “Buy & Try” items are waived, allowing you to receive the lowest tiered price possible.
  • No need to purchase a wholesale minimum order of $100.00 on “Buy & Try” Summer School purchases. You can add these items to your cart and check out with just the items you will need for a day of creating!
  • “Buy & Try” items cannot be combined with other wholesale products. 
Sorry it may be a bit confusing, so email Cheryl at Cheryl@nunndesign.com if you have any questions.

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Shop Nunn Design Wholesale

Nunn Design has been supplying jewelry artists with findings for over 20 years. Shop wholesale jewelry findings for creative jewelry makers.

Shop Nunn Design!

How to Purchase Wholesale?

If you are interested in becoming one of the many designers who trust their jewelry to Nunn Design Findings, please join us by registering to become one of our wholesale customers!

Please visit our Where to Buy Page for a listing of online stores that sell Nunn Design Findings retail.

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19 thoughts on “Texturized Resin Tutorial: Part 2

  1. Diane says:

    Could you use a no stick spray instead of baby powder? I ask because I’m not fond of the baby powder lumps left on the cured resin? Thank you for your thoughts.

      • beckynunn says:

        I’m sure that would work too. I pulled all the pieces that I have created doing this technique and honestly, I never thought twice about the “baby powder” being visible. I can see that it could potentially bother some people and it is worth trying non-stick spray and carefully removing the baby powder from the rubber texture pad with a paint brush. There is also a mold release spray that would be interesting to try.

        • Nancy says:

          I’m wanting to try this with mica powders. I have a vision of a dragonfly using this idea. You know, I really appreciate you showing ALL your steps. If you show us what doesn’t work and why, we don’t have to go through our own boo-boos. They aren’t mistakes, they are learning experiences.

    • Charley says:

      When I pour resin in/on anything except silicone, I use vaseline. It’s more viscous (thick) and has plenty of slip with very little. With squishers I’d rub it in all over then wipe most of it away leaving just a thin coating. I use UV resin, but this would be the same as well. I suggested to her maybe she would consider making silicone molds of her squishers, that way she wont have to worry about ruining them or the resin, and all around easier. Making a silicone mold out of these squishers would be so fun!

  2. Fran says:

    These come out pretty. The only suggestion is that I would wire the top of those findings closed and cut accordingly to the final shape. Then you won’t have that ragged edge.

  3. Kari says:

    I’ve tried this technique several times, and each time my resin has pulled up black from the clay squisher. Per your advice I let the resin set until it was quite thick, and that didn’t seem to help. I’ve also tried spraying the squisher with mold release. No matter how long I let it set before or after pouring, it pulls up black. Any ideas?

    • beckynunn says:

      I too have had the black release onto the cured resin. I have done two pieces side by side, same resin batch, same cure time, same room tempature. The only things that I can guess (mind you, I’m still figuring this out too!!!) is:
      1. Maybe I had more baby powder on the one that released better?
      2. Maybe the rubber on the claysquishers were of various ages?
      3. Maybe the resin was thicker?

      Honestly, I don’t know why sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn’t. I have used #00 steel wool to sand the resin to remove the rubber, but it still isn’t crystal clear. Keep me posted on what you experience.

  4. Sherry says:

    These are so beautiful, I can’t wait to try this technique. Question: could you just add a bit of resin to the edge of your findings and then place your soft cured resin along it to hold it in place? Like a glue?

  5. Rita says:

    Suggestion while in the soft cure, cut your shape out about 1/8 to 1/4″ smaller than your bezel, place shaped piece of resin on tape and add open bezel on top leaving the sides to be filled all around with extra resin. Let fully dry. Voila! Your piece is fully done. Just add fittings. Try it! (There might be need for a bit of cleaning underneath, maybe)

      • Lynne says:

        Hi Becky, I love the idea of your textured mats for resin jewelry. I have no experience with that. But I did want to comment on temp and humidity. Tho you can control the room temp. I live in Fla. and I have found if it is very humid outside it will also be humid inside to some extent. It effects my resin pours. Just as it affects dough when you bake. So I tend to not work in resin on humid days. It does make a difference.

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