Painter’s Tape vs Packing Tape for Open Frame Resin-Filled Bezels

I really enjoy incorporating resin into Open Back Frames, Wire Hoops and Bezels to make unique customized jewelry. Open Backs have provided a whole new level of creativity to my resin work.

The number one questions that people have in regards to wrapping their brains around the “how to” part of this creative play is; How do I get the resin to stay in the bezel? Often their question is followed with a bit of embarrassment about asking such a silly question, but really it isn’t silly at all.

There are several ways to hold the resin into place. I have shot many tutorials and videos showing how to do this with packing tape, a solution that has worked great. But most recently, we started to get curious about other types of tape.

During our last Nunn Design Artday, we explored using a painter’s tape. The results were awesome and I’m totally sold on switching over from packing tape.


Painter’s Tape:

For this experiment, I tried a 3M Scotch 2080EL Edge-Lock Painter’s Tape.


Step 1:
Cut a small piece of tape, the size of your open frame and place it onto the tape.


Step 2:
Someone had left a comment on a blog post saying that they liked to fold the edges of their edges instead of cutting them. It was a great suggestion, so I tried it. The folded over corners make the edges less sticky and easier to manage.


Step 3:
Go ahead and fill your bezel with resin and let cure.


Step 4:
Peel back the tape and remove once the resin is cured.


Step 5:
Here is the beautiful thing!! There is no sticky residue left over on the resin! The resin is slightly frosted looking, but I love this look.

Here is what the resin looks like from the front after pulling off the blue painter’s tape.


Verses Clear Packing Tape:

When using clear packing tape, there are additional steps that aren’t required with the painter’s tape. Here are the steps that you will need to do to remove any sticky residue on the backside of the cured resin once you pull off the packing tape.

Step 1:
Once the resin is fully cured, remove the packing tape.  I’m not sure about you, but I have yet to not have some sticky residue on the backside of my resin. If it is a small amount, I have been able to use the packing tape to remove the sticky residue.

Using the sticky side of the packing tape, press it onto the sticky residue over and over again, like you would when removing lint or animal fur from your clothing.  Often this can pick up the sticky residue left over from the packing tape on the backside of the resin.

Step 2:
If you still have some sticky residue, you’ll need to bring in the Goo Be Gone.  Place a few drops on the sticky residue resin and let sit for a minute.

Step 3:
Use a stir stick to scrape away the sticky residue.  It works great every time, but wait!  You still aren’t done!  To really clean it up, you will want to use some rubbing alcohol to completely remove everything.


Summary: Painter’s Tape vs. Packing Tape

Here is a brief summary of the painter’s tape verses packing tape.

PAINTER’S TAPE:
Pro: No sticky residue on the backside of the cured resin.
Con: The painter’s tape can be more expensive than packing tape
Con: The painter’s tape leaves a frosted effect in the resin, instead of a clear. (Although, you can mix up some more resin and add a layer to the frosted side for a clear effect.)

PACKING TAPE:
Pro: Easily available and less expensive than packing tape
Pro: The resin is clear when the packing tape is removed
Con: Leaves a sticky residue on backside
Con: There are additional steps and expense to remove the sticky residue

Conclusion: I liked the painter’s tape a lot. I have yet to explore using masking tape and other types of tape like that. They might work just as well as an expensive painter’s tape.

Please leave a comment as to what you think works best for you.


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18 thoughts on “Painter’s Tape vs Packing Tape for Open Frame Resin-Filled Bezels

  1. Brandy C says:

    I am excited to try the painters tape. If I want a clear finish I’d much rather pour another resin layer than battle with removing sticky residue. Thanks for the tip!

  2. Michelle Gray says:

    I’ve used Goo Gone, but it tends to leave an oily residue, so I prefer UnDo. If you’re in California, you’ll have to buy it online ‘cuz the slight fumes caused it to be outlawed to sell it in CA. It’s worth ordering online though because UnDo has no residue and dries quickly. Great for card making and scrapbooking too for that reason.
    I’m with commentator Brandy. I’d rather use painter’s tape and add a thin layer of resin on the back for a clear backing, depending on the inclusions that is.
    TFS!

  3. Lorraine says:

    I’ve used masking tape,and what a mess.the resin stayed in the bezal,I had terrible trouble to get it off.it stuck everywhere.and the resin was dull .

  4. Andy says:

    I’m in the U.K. and have tried various ‘tapes’. I now use Sticky back Plastic as we call it in the U.K. (I think in US it’s contact paper). I make my own sterling bezels but make sure absolutely flat and polished, then sit on the sticky plastic and sit a heavy book on top for a couple of hours. Mix up the resin and let it start to cure for 30 mins to an hour depending on the resin, pour when slightly thicker. Works a treat.

  5. Megan P says:

    Try a bit of WD-40 on a cotton swab to remove the residue. I use it all the time for residues from things like tape, price stickers and labels.

  6. Tracy Webster says:

    If you heat up the packing tape before pulling it off, it pulls off residue free. I hit with my heat gun just until it warms and then pull it off immediately while it’s warm. I never have to deal with residue.

  7. Wendy Hacker says:

    Funny, I was rummaging around the house today looking for tape. I came across a lint remover. The tape has a bit of a texture that could be interesting. I am going to try it soon.

    • beckynunn says:

      Please let us know how that turns out! It could cause the resin to have a sort of frosty look due to the texture. Should be cool!

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