Texturized Resin Tutorial: Part 2
This summer I wrote Part 1 of this tutorial about Texturizing Resin. I originally stumbled across this technique while messing about last spring, but when I actually scheduled the step-out photos it was mid-summer. The results didn’t come out consistent with the results I had in the spring. To see that original post, visit our blog: Textured Resin Tutorial: Part 1.
In Part 2 of the Texturizing Resin Tutorial, I am fairly confident I know why I had the results I did. I’d much rather that I find these inconsistencies than you guys! Thanks for following along on my creative journey.
Part 2 is just like Part 1 until you get to Step 7. I added some Castin’ Crafts Opaque Pigment-Blue to mix it up a bit AND in Step 8 I identify where I went wrong in Part 1. Read on…
- Nunn Design Resin Kit
- Clay Squisher
- Contemporary Jewelry Findings
- 22 Gauge Wire
- Baby Powder
- Ziplock Bag
- 1.8mm Hole Punch
- Flush Cutters
- Needle Nose Pliers
Select a Clay Squisher that you would like to work with.
Pour some baby powder onto a ziplock bag. Place your fingers into the baby powder and smear it thoroughly onto the surface of the Clay Squisher.
Place the Clay Squisher pad on its side and tap it lightly onto the table. The excess baby powder will fall onto the table. Wipe down your work surface, removing any excess baby powder.
Read the resin instructions for safety concerns regarding the Nunn Design Resin. When I work with resin, I always:
- Place a large plastic bag over my work surface and tape it down.
- I make sure I have ventilation in my workroom.
- I wear gloves.
- I wear glasses (readers because I can’t see anymore. Plus it protects my eyes!).
- I have a pile of wet wipes handy.
This is a great blog post that covers 20 Habits for Successfully Using Nunn Design 2-Part Epoxy Resin. Even if you are a seasoned resin mixer, this might be worth a read.
Place one cup (included in the Nunn Design Resin Kit) onto your table. For curing purposes, it is very important that the resin be an exact 1 to 1 ratio of Part A and Part B. I suggest getting your eyes level with the resin so you can see the lines on the measuring cup. Pour Part A of your resin kit up to the ½ fluid ounce mark on your measuring cup. Pour Part B of your resin kit into the same cup until it is filled to the 1 fluid ounce mark. It is important to pour Part A first and then Part B. It is some chemical thing about the part A being heavier or something.
Set your timer for 2 minutes. Using the stir stick from your kit (a popsicle stick or coffee stir stick will work great too), slowly and carefully stir your resin scraping the sides as you stir. Stir for the full 2 minutes. After 2 minutes, scrape both sides of your stir stick on the edge of your resin filled cup.
To add a tint of blue to the resin, add a tiny toothpick of the Castin’ Craft Opaque Pigment Blue to the mixed resin. The opaque blue pigment is very potent, so you will only need a tiny bit to colorize the fully mixed batch of resin. It is always best to add too little pigment and to add more if needed.
Alright, if you read our Texturized Resin Part 1 blog post tutorial, this is where I think I messed up. I didn’t let the resin set until it was super thick before I poured it onto the Clay Squisher. With Part 1, I poured freshly mixed resin onto the Clay Squisher and I think it chemically absorbed into the rubber.
This is what it looked like when I went to peel it up! Yuck-o!
In order for the resin to peel away easily once it is in the soft cured state, the resin needs to be getting good and thick before pouring it onto the Clay Squisher Texturizing Pad. Scrape out all of your remaining, thick, colorized resin onto the powder-covered Clay Squisher. Spread the resin around with a stir-stick until the resin is even in height. I had some clear resin left over from another project, so I added that to another pattern on the Clay Squisher.
TIP: Resin must be thick prior to pouring or it will stick to the Clay Squisher.
Let resin cure for 6 hours or until the resin is hard to the touch and not sticky. This stage of the curing resin is referred to as the “soft cure” stage.
Let the resin cure for about 6 hours. It will be fairly firm and not tacky to the touch. Bend one of the edges of the Clay Squisher and start to pick at the edge of the resin. It might be hard to get it started, but once you do, it will be fairly easy to pull back the soft cured resin.
TIP: Resin must be cut and punched during the soft cure phase. It will continue to cure and hardened over the next 48 hours.
The soft cured resin will be really easy to cut with a pair of scissors. Lay a Contemporary Jewelry Finding onto the surface of the soft cured resin. Hold the Contemporary Findings and the resin in place with one hand while you cut the resin with your other.
Next, use a 1.8mm Hole Punch to create some holes in the resin. You will want to punch the holes far enough in from the edge as not to easily tear the resin when you are stitching on the 22-gauge wire.
Using a pair of flush cutters, cut 1’ of 22-gauge wire. Thread the wire through the punched hole in the resin and wrap it around the Contemporary Frame several times.
Use your flush cutters again to cut away the extra wire. I cut the wire consistently where it was coming up through the resin hole. Continue until all of the Contemporary Frame is secured to the texturized resin.
Download PDF Tutorial: How To Texturize Resin
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